About the Author
Justus Hansen, born and raised in Tasiilaq, works at Kommuneqarfik Sermersooq as Business and Tourism consultant, as well as member of the municipality council. Although he relocated to Denmark at the age of 14, where he took his school and practical education, the allure of East Greenland remained etched in his heart. In 1993, he returned to his beloved Tasiilaq. Today, he shares his life with his wife and four children in his hometown Tasiilaq. Justus’s unique perspective on East Greenland draws attention to the stark contrasts that define life in this remote region. In East Greenland, one can witness the coexistence of life and death in close proximity, exemplified by the relationship between the seal and its hunters. From observing the seals to witnessing their processing, and even seeing the resilience of the hunters in the face of isolating conditions, East Greenland presents a world where life and death walk hand in hand. However, what stands out is the enduring spirit of the people, who greet each other with warmth and camaraderie, regardless of who they are—an act of unity in a world where one often stands alone. Justus’ favorite escape from the rigors of everyday life lies in the serene embrace of East Greenland’s natural beauty. He finds solace in embarking on sailing and camping adventures with his family, happily with the extended family, surrounded by the vast wilderness of this unspoiled region. Here, they revel in each other’s company, leaving behind the distractions of the digital world and truly “unplugging” from the hustle and bustle of modern life.
Introduction
Justus Hansen from Tasiilaq knows the people and its surroundings well, in this itinerary he shares with you his winter highlights of how to best explore East Greenland as a visitor. From thrilling snowmobile rides to deep diving into the culture with dog sledding, kaffemik and local homestay. His itinerary is a testament to the deep connections one can forge with a place and its people, and the enduring commitment to creating a better future while honoring the past.
Day 1: Arrival and Exploration of Tasiilaq
As you touch down in Tasiilaq by helicopter, your Arctic adventure begins. You’ll find yourself settling into a private rental apartment that offers self-service convenience. The apartment along with a fully equipped kitchen also comes with running water, bathroom, bedroom(s) and complimentary wifi. Use the first few hours of daylight to get acquainted with this charming town, exploring its layout, and immersing yourself in the local culture. Start by visiting the museum to delve into the rich history of this remote enclave. Then, wander through the town’s local shops, each offering unique treasures and insights into Greenlandic life. A leisurely walk through the winter landscape reveals the town’s numerous viewpoints, all accessible even during the winter months, offering picturesque vistas that will leave you in awe. After a heartwarming dinner, you might already get a glimpse at the Aurora Borealis dancing in the night sky, remember to look out the window in the dark.
Day 2: Ice Fishing and Northern Lights
With daylight on your side, seize the opportunity to partake in a quintessential local activity—ice fishing on the frozen fjord. Channel your inner fisherman as you search for the perfect spot, create a hole in the ice, and prepare your equipment for an authentic ice fishing experience. If luck is on your side, you might just catch your dinner. Don’t forget to pack coffee, tea, and cookies to savor while witnessing the diligence that goes into ice fishing. Return to your cozy apartment and prepare a dinner featuring the fish you caught yourself, an accomplishment that adds a special flavor to your meal. In the evening, consider a visit to the local church, where you can listen to one of the talented local choirs rehearsing. As you stroll through town, keep your eyes peeled for the captivating spectacle of the northern lights dancing in the Arctic night sky.
Day 3: Snowmobiling to Tiilerilaaq
Today, embark on a thrilling snowmobiling excursion to Tiilerilaaq, one of the smaller settlements in the region. Along the way, you’ll traverse a vast frozen lake, gaze upon a glacier, and revel in the breathtaking Arctic vistas that surround you. Your destination is a homestay with a local family, where you’ll gain unique insights into life in an Arctic settlement. The family will generously provide you with food, allowing you to savor some of the area’s delectable delicacies.
Day 4: Seal Hunting in Sermilik Fjord
With the first light of day, head out to the viewpoint of Tiilerilaaq to enjoy a stunning view over the Sermilik Fjord, partially frozen, filled with giant icebergs and the massive Greenland ice sheet in the backdrop. This fjord will be your destination for the day. Set off on an unforgettable seal hunting expedition by boat or sledge to the stunning Sermilik Fjord from Tiilerilaaq. Depending on the conditions of the ice just outside Tiilerilaaq you will hop onto the boat or the sled to accompany one of the local hunters on the hunt for seals. Equipped with coffee, tea, some treats for energy in the cold and a cold lunch, you will head out into the frozen landscape. Fascinated by the various marvelous shapes of ice unfolding in front of you, remember to try spotting a seal sunbathing on the ice floats or coming up to breeze in from the water. If this will be a successful hunt, you will get a chance to taste seal prepared the East Greenlandic way, when you get back to the settlement. After a long day out, filled with insights into the local culture and a hunter’s everyday life, you are welcomed by the other family members to the cozy house. Jointly the dinner will be prepared from the fresh catch, you will get to experience sea to table, from the fresh catch to the ready meal on the dinner table. Spend another night in the warm embrace of a local family, experiencing their daily life and the simple comforts of shared apartment living.
Day 5: Return to Tasiilaq with Stories to Share
Today, a sled awaits you to transport you on a full-day journey back to Tasiilaq. Following a similar route as on your way here, the slow journeying on the sled will give you a new perspective of the passing landscape, it surely will look entirely different to you. Settling with the dogs’ rhythm, at the local meeting spot ‘Kaffebaren’ it is time to take a break and enjoy some hot beverages, the musher will happily share some stories with you about everyday life in such a remote corner of the world and how they navigate the backcountry. It’s time for the last stretch before the darkness reaches, heading onto the last stretch soon the lights of the town of Tasiilaq will appear on the other side of the fjord. You will get back to your apartment, surely enjoying a hot shower after spending all day long in the cold, a warm stew cooked for dinner before heading into bed.
Day 6: Snowmobile Adventure to Mittivakat Glacier and Kaffemik
Before it soon is time to leave the Arctic landscape, there is one more day for a thrilling adventure. Prepare for a snowmobile ride to the mesmerizing Mittivakat Glacier. In the afternoon, immerse yourself in the cultural richness of the Arctic as you partake in a traditional kaffemik, a welcoming coffee gathering with locals where plenty of cakes and other East Greenlandic treats will be served for you to try. Enjoy one last evening at your own pleasure chasing the northern lights.
Day 7: Departure
As your incredible Arctic expedition draws to a close, you depart from Tasiilaq, carrying with you cherished memories of a week filled with remarkable experiences in this enchanting corner of the world. The helicopter tour will allow you one last view onto this town in the middle of the vast mountainous landscape before heading to Kulusuk where you will board your flight leaving for Iceland to catch your connection to get back home.
