About the author
Matt Spenceley found his place amongst East Greenland’s mountains, fjords, glaciers over 20 years ago. Growing up amidst wild landscapes, his passion for exploration led him to compete in slalom kayaking and Ice Climbing World Championships, honing the skills crucial for his current journey. Becoming an IFMGA mountain guide allowed Matt to immerse himself in a community deeply connected to the mountains. While he has been on various adventures globally, it’s the allure of East Greenland’s untouched beauty that captivates him, from daily mountain expeditions to multiple icecap crossings. His fascination has its roots in the continual learning about nature’s elements, searching out beautiful ski and alpine lines and embracing the challenges of this vast Arctic wilderness. Guided by local mentors he has acquired invaluable skills in sea ice navigation, storm management, and wildlife awareness, shaping his profound connection to this pristine environment. Alongside his wife Helen, they have embraced a fulfilling life on this stunning arctic alpine coastline.
Introduction
In East Greenland, one of the wildest coastlines on earth, in vast alpine ranges that extend thousands of kilometers, we have found a paradise for ski touring. Heavily glaciated mountains, offering many lifetimes of stunning ski lines and exploration, rise from the icebergs of the frozen fjords. A partnership of experienced IFMGA mountain guides and Inuit elders, allow for thrilling skiing adventures while ensuring safety and experiencing life in a remote Inuit community. Exploring these magnificent mountains on skis and immersing ourselves in the local way of life is our shared passion.
Day 1: Wilderness Ski Touring in East Greenland
Your adventure begins in the untamed wilderness of East Greenland, home to some of the most spectacular coastlines on the planet. Here, vast alpine ranges stretch for thousands of kilometers, offering an unparalleled paradise for folk passionate about ski touring. These heavily glaciated mountains, offering countless wild ski lines rise majestically from the frozen fjords, creating an awe-inspiring backdrop to your journey. Tucked away in the small Tunumi village of Kulusuk is the ski lodge and our home, from which we’ll embark on this extraordinary expedition. After your arrival at the airstrip, we’ll skin over the sea ice to reach the lodge, a journey of around 40 minutes. Use the rest of the day to settle in, get comfortable and get to know your guides, equipment and surroundings for the upcoming days. Whenever we can, we like to cook with the ingredients that are local to us, from cod to salmon and arctic char.
Day 2: Tailored Adventures and Scenic Skiing
Every week we follow what the conditions allow, following the best snow. Before embarking, each morning begins with a strategic planning session to pinpoint the prime spot for our adventure, ensuring optimal conditions for an exhilarating day ahead. Whether traversing the powder-laden slopes of Nertilaat or marveling at the icy vistas of Ammassalik Qingertiva, our journey is expertly crafted to embrace the essence of East Greenland’s winter wonderland. Following a hearty breakfast, we embark on our snowmobile or dog sled transport to the day’s ski destination, equipped with all essential provisions for a day of exploration. After indulging in a day of skiing and discovery, we return to our lodge in the evening for a cozy homemade meal before retiring for the night in our comfortable accommodation.
Day 3: Summit Pursuits and Glacial Descents
Awakening to the promise of another day of adventure in the Ammassalik region, we eagerly set out after a hearty breakfast and a morning briefing, soaking in the panoramic views of the settlement with a warm beverage in hand. Today’s itinerary may lead us to the towering summits of Iperaji and Taatsugai, where we descend amidst the dramatic backdrop of Ikaasartik’s icy waters and icebergs. As the day draws to a close, we return to our lodge to unwind and recharge for the next day’s escapades.
Day 4: A Tranquil Retreat and Alpine Exploration
Today heralds a change of scene as we depart early morning for our hidden sanctuary, the mountain hut nestled on the north shores of Apusiaajik. Serving as our basecamp for the next few days, this remote refuge offers boundless opportunities for multi-day traverses and glacier-bound summits. After a day of alpine exploration, we retire to the cozy confines of the hut, where we relish in the serenity of the Arctic night and perhaps catch a glimpse of the elusive northern lights.
Day 5: Wilderness Wonders and Mountain Majesty
Waking up amidst the rugged grandeur of our mountain retreat, we set out to explore the vast expanse of snow-clad peaks and glaciers that surround us. Amidst breathtaking vistas, we embark on another day of skiing adventures, pausing for lunch at scenic viewpoints to savor the tranquility of our surroundings. As evening falls, we return to the hut for another night of shared camaraderie and shared experiences.
Day 6: Homeward Bound
After breakfast, we bid farewell to our mountain refuge and set our sights on returning to the comforts of our lodge in Kulusuk by day’s end. Amidst glacial crossings and snowy vistas, we ski our way back to civilization, reveling in the memories of our wilderness exploits.
Day 7: Farewell to Adventure and Aurora
Our final day of skiing beckons as we venture out to explore the untouched corners of Kulusuk’s enchanting landscape. With conditions aligning perfectly, we carve our way through new slopes and hidden gems, savoring every moment of our Arctic escapade. As night descends, we gather for our final evening, sharing stories and, if we’re lucky, marveling at Northern Lights.
Day 8: Journey’s End
One last skin back to the airstrip for the stunning flight back to Iceland, this time looking out over the peaks we’ve been exploring this past week.
About Pirhuk
Embarking on an expedition into East Greenland’s Majesty, Pirhuk, led by Helen and Matt Spenceley, stands as a revered beacon among Greenland’s mountain guides, renowned for their expertise in exhilarating ski touring, mountaineering, and trekking odysseys in the Arctic realm. Nestled in the picturesque setting of Kulusuk, Pirhuk epitomizes the spirit of exploration and revelation in the region’s grandiose mountains, serene fjords, and imposing glaciers. Their strength lies in the seamless fusion of two decades of seasoned experience, a small team of adept, internationally qualified mountain guides and a cherished collaboration with local communities, igniting an unparalleled zeal for East Greenland’s diverse landscapes and fostering an unparalleled journey for intrepid adventurers. The expedition commences at their cozy lodge in Kulusuk, a gateway to an array of unforgettable escapades. Beyond the array of adventures offered, Pirhuk’s allure lies in the depth of their immersive experiences. Drawing from their passion and intimate knowledge cultivated through years of exploration in Greenland’s terrain, Pirhuk provides a transformative journey that delves into the intricacies of local life and the untamed allure of this mysterious land. With Pirhuk, your expedition transcends mere adventure, evolving into a voyage of discovery and wonder.