Travel Diary from a Dog Sledding Adventure in East Greenland

About the Authors

Simone and Line are both 29 years old and based in Denmark. They met in Nuuk in 2019 during their internships with the police, where Simone served as a legal advisor and Line as a police officer. What was planned as a short, temporary posting turned into several years for both of them: three for Line and two for Simone. But more importantly, they discovered their lasting love for Greenland. They take every opportunity to return to Greenland and explore some parts of the vast country that they haven’t encountered yet. Today, they seek moments of stillness and connection through nature, whether hiking, sailing, dog sledding, or simply sitting quietly by the sea. East Greenland, with its vast silence and immense beauty, continues to remind them of what truly matters.

Into the White Unknown

In April 2025, Simone and Line set out for East Greenland to experience the wildernesses of the Ammassalik backcountry in the most scenic way possible: by dog sled. This time, they returned to Greenland as travellers seeking quiet, connection, and the raw beauty of Arctic life in East Greenland. Their adventure began in Tasiilaq, the largest town on Greenland’s east coast, and led them across frozen fjords, remote settlements, and miles of untouched snow. What followed was a four-day adventure filled with silence, cold, and moments of unexpected warmth, from the bond with their sled dogs to the hospitality of the people they met along the way. This is their travel diary from a dog sledding journey through East Greenland. A glimpse into a landscape where nature still decides, and where time moves to the rhythm of the dogs’ paws on snow.

Day 1: First Encounters with the Dogs

We landed in Tasiilaq a little behind schedule, but that’s just part of the Greenlandic rhythm. Here, the weather decides, and plans simply learn to wait. When we finally landed, we were met with warm smiles and shown to our accommodation: a big, beautiful blue house in the middle of Tasiilaq. We quickly repacked, and before we knew it, we were on our very first dog sled ride heading out of town. The dogs, lean, strong, and eager, burst forward, pulling us into the white beyond.

The three-hour journey to the cabin felt like gliding into another world. Silence everywhere, broken only by the dogs’ steady breathing and the soft crunch of the sled runners on snow. Sitting back on the sled, with nothing else to do but look around, felt like pure meditation. When in everyday life do you ever spend three uninterrupted hours just inside your own head?

At the cabin, we were welcomed with a warm meal of local salmon. Later that evening, as we looked out of the frost-covered window, we froze in disbelief: enormous polar bear tracks right outside. The thought that a polar bear had wandered so close was both humbling and thrilling, a reminder of how wild and immense this place is, and how small we are in comparison. We ended the night by saying goodnight to the dogs under a sky full of stars.

Day 2: Snowshoeing and Visiting Tiilerilaaq

After a cosy night in the cabin, we strapped on snowshoes and set out into the crisp morning air. The snow crunched beneath us, the sky was bright blue, and everything sparkled as if sprinkled with glitter. At the viewpoint overlooking the Sermerlik Fjord, we stood speechless. We were met with a frozen wonderland. Ice flakes covered the fjord like shattered glass, and the silence made the scene feel almost unreal.

Later, the sled carried us towards the small settlement of Tiilerilaaq, home to around 70 people. To reach it, we sledded down a huge glacier wall, a descent we’ll never forget. In Tiilerilaaq, the warmth of the locals was as striking as the icy surroundings. We were welcomed into a family’s home and shared a traditional Greenlandic meal, then walked around the settlement, taking in the rhythm of life in such a small and remote community.

Day 3: Easter in Tiilerilaaq and Stories on the Sea Ice

Easter morning in Tiilerilaaq felt special from the moment we woke. The day began with a visit to the tiny church in Tiilerilaaq, which is hosted in the school. It was Easter Sunday, and everyone had dressed up for the service. We sang hymns in Greenlandic together with the community.

Later, we sledded across the frozen sea to a fishermen’s cabin, a tiny dot on the endless white. Not far from the cabin, the fishermen were scattered across the frozen landscape ice fishing, as beneath the thick layer of ice was the open sea. Walking out to meet them, coffee in hand, was surreal, knowing that beneath our feet lay the deep Arctic sea. We sat down right there on the ice, sipping coffee in the sunlight, trying to take in the strangeness and beauty of the moment.

Day 4: Return to Tasiilaq: A Warm Welcome and Puppy Cuddles

Our final day of this multiday adventure began early, the sled dogs howling with excitement as we prepared to head back. The journey home felt like retracing dreams, familiar landscapes, yet somehow different now that we’d lived inside them. We reached Tasiilaq just as a local dog sled race. The sound of cheering, laughter, and barking filled the air, a joyful contrast to the quiet days before.

We wandered through town and spent time with the sled dog puppies, who were as playful as ever. That evening, a local chef prepared our final meal in the blue house, and we sat together reflecting on all that we had experienced. Hours on the sled had given us time to think, to disconnect from everyday noise, and to reconnect with ourselves.

Reflections

This journey was more than just an Arctic winter adventure, it was about slowing down and rediscovering presence. The delays, the unexpected turns, even the unpredictability of the weather and the struggles, everything added to the authenticity of the local experience.

Dog sledding across East Greenland’s rugged, breathtaking spring landscapes gave us space to breathe, to reflect, and to truly feel alive. If you ever get the chance: take it. Be ready for surprises, and let East Greenland work its quiet magic on you. We shared this adventure together, but in many ways, we also had our own private journeys, with hours on the sled to let our minds wander wherever they wanted to go.